How to Take Care of Bare-Root Plants Until Planting Time
Bare-root plants are superb alternatives to container specimens. They establish themselves quickly, grow well with less water, and are more cold-hardy. Though ideal for planting, they are only available when the weather is chilly, moist, and frosty. If you can’t plant them now, learn to keep them safe until you’re ready.
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Bare-root plants look exactly like they sound—they’re plants with soilless roots! Though it seems unlikely they’ll survive, they often perform better than container transplants with soil around their roots. They reach deep into your garden’s soil, latching easily onto the earth.
Growers take advantage of winter dormancy to create bare-root plants. Winter dormant and deciduous species suck their energy into their roots and trunk, where they hold it for use throughout the cool season. Without photosynthesizing leaves, they’re able to withstand long periods aboveground. Find them available in late fall and early spring.
Though tough, these specimens are at risk of drying out. The roots dry quickly under frigid, dry winds that frequent throughout the winter. Keep them safe until you’re ready to plant so they stay healthy and turgid. We’ll cover how to best care for your specimens so they thrive the rest of the year.
Step 1: Remove Packaging
Some bare-root trees arrive with packaging around their roots, while others stay in moist sawdust bins where you can choose which ones to take home. If you buy them online or at grocery stores, they’ll most likely come with packaging; if you purchase them from local nurseries, they’ll most likely be in sawdust.
Start by unwrapping the plastic or burlap from the roots. Take care not to break or disrupt any tender root fragments inside. Most packaging has rubber bands or ties holding it together; you can snip or unravel these carefully over the roots.
You’ll often find sphagnum or peat moss around the root base for moisture control and insulation. Save these materials for later—we’ll use them to rewrap the plants for storage.
For specimens in sawdust, the process is a bit different. Simply pick the one you want, take it out of the bin, and bring it home for storage or planting. It’s best to inspect all of the specimens first to make sure you’re getting a good one.
Step 2: Inspect The Parts
Inspect rootballs by looking closely at their fragments. You want thick, healthy pieces without sogginess, bruising, or wounds. Dryness is also a concern—avoid twiggy, weak specimens that break easily. Moistness is the key, as it helps the plants stay warm and well-hydrated throughout the winter.
Also look at the top growth, ensuring buds are swollen and firm, twigs are perky, and the trunk is intact. Large wounds are a no-no, as they may seep in winter and invite pests and pathogens.
It’s important to start with healthy material when growing plants with bare roots. Leave any with dry or soggy root pieces, and ask for a refund if you purchased the specimens online. Unhealthy rootballs lead to weak or dead trees by the time spring arrives.
The best place to find bare-root trees and shrubs is a local tree farm. They often sell to the public! If they don’t, they might sell wholesale material to your local nurseries. Call or ask around to see where the healthiest specimens come from. Neighbors who have recently landscaped their yards might know some good sources.
Step 3: Repack Material
After ensuring that you have healthy, turgid plants with intact roots, it’s time to prepare them for temporary storage. Grab the mosses from the packaging, or use burlap, craft moss, or similar materials that soak water. A microfiber cloth will do!
It’s important to have the packing materials moist and not soggy. Sogginess leads to root rot, diseases, and pest infestations. They should feel like a wrung-out sponge. Water shouldn’t actively fall from the moss, though if you squeeze it some water should appear.
Grab the moist moss and wrap it over the rootball, taking care not to damage or destroy any twigs, stems, or roots. Use twine, yarn, or string to secure the packaging over the base, ensuring roots are inside the wrapping. Any pieces poking out may dry before planting.
Step 4: Find A Storage Location
A cool location is crucial for successful storage. You want an area safe from frost but chilly enough to keep the trees and shrubs dormant. Find a spot with a temperature of around 40°F (4°C). Most gardens in hardiness zones 1 through 8 are too cold during the winter for outdoor storage.
Instead, prop the specimens up in an unheated garage, a chilly basement, or a root cellar. The refrigerator perfectly stores small plants like strawberries, asparagus, and miniature roses. Ensure the packaging material is moist in the fridge to keep your perennials alive and well throughout their dormancy.
Step 5: Check Up On the Plants
Consistent moisture is essential during long-term storage. Keep a spray bottle, watering can, or similar tool near your dormant perennials. That way, when they need water, you can pick up your nearby can or bottle and water them as necessary.
A heater is beneficial in cold zones, as unheated garages tend to drop well below 40°F (4°C) from December through February. Though heaters boost the temperature, they also dry the air. Keep them on to maintain the optimal temperature range, avoiding excessive dry heat when possible.
A humidifier works well in combination with a heater to provide ambient moisture. It’ll work well in a garage, though it’s often unnecessary in damp root cellars, basements, and similar rooms. Maintaining consistent dampness around the plants’ bases is the most important thing to watch for.
Step 6: Transplant Soon
Store your trees or shrubs until early spring. You want to plant the specimens before their buds open and break dormancy. After awakening they’ll need soil to grow in; they’ll struggle to breathe inside their wrapping. New leaves demand sugar, moisture, and nutrients that the plant must get from the soil.
Spring is a busy season—it’s normal to forget trees are in your garage! If the buds break dormancy early, it’s best to transplant the trees or shrubs as soon as possible. Dig holes, unwrap them of their mossy covering, and place each specimen in a hole.
You want the stems standing upright with their trunks above ground level. Bury them no deeper or shallower than this, as it can cause growing issues later in life. Water the soil well, then lift the specimens to keep their trunks above the ground.
Do you still have questions about transplanting soilless plant material? Learn more in these easy-to-follow guides for specific species:
