How to Propagate a Ficus in 7 Easy Steps

Why spend a minimum of $50 on a fake ficus tree when it’s so easy to grow a real one yourself? If you’re wondering how to propagate your own ficus plant, you’re in the right place.

There are many types of ficus trees to choose from. The traditional weeping fig is one of the most popular houseplants worldwide. Rubber plants, with their deep green leaves and striking red highlights, are also part of the ficus genus. Then there’s the ever-trendy fiddle leaf fig, known for its large, violin-shaped leaves, and the creeping ficus, which looks fantastic cascading from a hanging basket.

No matter the type, propagation through cuttings is the easiest and most reliable way to grow more ficus plants. If you’re thinking, “Okay, great—but how do you take a cutting?” we’ve got you covered. In the next section, we’ll outline the tools and steps you’ll need to successfully propagate your ficus by cutting.

Let’s dig in!

Step 1: Prep The Area

Ficus leaves and stems can be quite messy when cut or accidentally broken. Once the protective outer tissue is wounded, a white sap quickly begins to ooze from the cut. This sap is latex; very sticky and often difficult to remove from tools, fabric, and skin. The foremost piece of advice here is to wear gloves while you’re propagating.

To prevent a cleanup headache when you propagate ficus, it’s a good idea to protect the area around. Use a tarp, old sheet, or drop cloth to catch any drips. For smaller plants, you can place the ficus directly on the tarp. For larger specimens, drape the cloth around the base of the plant, extending it out to cover the area beneath the canopy. This way, any sap will fall onto the cloth instead of nearby furniture, flooring, or carpet.

Step 2: Clean Your Tools

Cleaning and sanitizing your tools is essential before you begin pruning. Dirty tools are a common way plant diseases spread between houseplants, and even a small lapse in hygiene can cause problems across your collection.

While some plant families are more susceptible to disease than others, all houseplants benefit from proper tool care. Practicing good cleaning habits helps ensure your plants stay healthy, especially when propagating or pruning.

Keep in mind that you can’t properly sanitize your pruners or tools without cleaning them first, especially if you plan to use chlorine bleach as your disinfectant. Dirt and residue can block the disinfectant from working effectively.

How to Clean Your Tools

Start by removing any visible plant debris and soil with a stiff, dry brush. Then, wash your pruners in a solution of mild dish soap and warm water—just as you would when hand-washing dishes. Scrub the blade and strike plate carefully, rinse with clean water, and pat dry with a clean cloth or paper towel.

You can sanitize your tools easily at home using common household products. The two most effective options are 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol and chlorine bleach. Both are inexpensive, widely available, and effective against a broad range of plant pathogens.

To sanitize with rubbing alcohol: Pour 70% isopropyl alcohol onto a clean paper towel or cotton ball. Wipe down the blade and strike plate thoroughly so both surfaces are saturated. Allow the alcohol to evaporate completely before using your pruners.

To sanitize with chlorine bleach: In a glass or heavy-duty plastic container, mix 1 part chlorine bleach with 9 parts water. Gently submerge your pruners in the solution, taking care to avoid splashing. Let them soak for 30 minutes. After soaking, rinse the pruners thoroughly under clean, cool water.

If you’re working outdoors and pruning multiple plants, consider bringing your bleach solution and a container of clean water with you. Soak your tools in the bleach for five minutes between plants, then rinse in the clean water before continuing.

Always discard the bleach solution after use, as it becomes ineffective once contaminated with plant residue from your tools.

Step 3: Taking Cuttings

Cuttings are the easiest way to propagate ficus trees. Now that your tools are clean and your workspace is prepped, it’s time to take your cuttings.

It’s always a good idea to take more than one. No matter how careful or experienced you are, not all cuttings will survive and grow into new plants. Something inevitably happens—you go away for the weekend and the cuttings dry out, your cat turns one into a toy, or it just wasn’t a viable piece to begin with.

Whatever the reason, take a few extras. If they all happen to root successfully? That’s a bonus, and you’ll have some to share with friends, family, or fellow plant lovers.

The best cuttings come from fresh, healthy growth. Look for young side shoots in areas of strong, active growth. Using your sanitized pruners, cut each shoot to about 4–5 inches long, making sure each cutting has at least two full sets of leaves. Discard any leftover plant material that isn’t suitable for propagation.

Step 4: Remove Leaves

To successfully propagate ficus trees, your cuttings must have healthy leaves. These leaves are essential for photosynthesis, which helps encourage rooting even before the cutting has developed roots. However, having too many leaves can actually hinder the process.

Transpiration (the process by which water evaporates from plant tissues through the leaves) continues even while the cutting is rootless. The more leaves present, the higher the rate of water loss. Because the cutting can’t draw up new water without roots, it can dry out quickly.

The key is finding the right balance: enough foliage to support photosynthesis, but not so much that the cutting loses water faster than it can sustain itself. Aim to leave 2–3 sets of healthy leaves at the top of your cutting.

If your cutting has more than 2–3 sets of leaves, gently trim or pinch off the lower ones at the point where they connect to the stem. You may notice some white latex sap oozing from the cut points. This is normal and nothing to worry about. Discard the removed leaves in the compost or trash.

Step 5: Use Rooting Hormone

Ficus tissue tends to be thicker and woodier than that of many other houseplants. Because of this, cuttings often need extra help when establishing roots. Rooting hormone is especially useful when propagating ficus trees, as it encourages the development of new roots from dense stem tissue.

Plants naturally contain various hormones that influence growth, flowering, seed germination, and even fruit ripening. By applying rooting hormone, we can help speed up the rooting process during propagation.

Rooting hormone is available in several forms, including powders, liquids, and gels. These products are widely used in the asexual propagation of plants and can be found at most garden centers.

How To Apply Rooting Hormone

To apply rooting hormone to a cutting to propagate ficus, begin by pouring a small amount of liquid or gel hormone into a separate container. Avoid dipping the cutting directly into the original bottle, as this can contaminate the entire product and potentially expose future cuttings to pathogens.

Dip the end of each cutting into the small container of hormone, making sure to cover several leaf nodes with the solution. Place the cutting into a pre-prepared hole in a pot filled with dampened rooting media. Gently press the soil back around the cutting to ensure good contact between the stem and the soil and to help stabilize the cutting.

If you are using powdered rooting hormone, hold the cutting over a trash can and lightly shake the powder over the stem, making sure to coat the leaf nodes. Alternatively, you can dip the stem in water first to help the powder stick more effectively.

Tap the cutting gently to remove any excess powder. Insert the cutting into the pre-made hole in your dampened potting mix, being careful not to knock off the powder. Press the soil gently around the stem to create firm contact and support the cutting in place.

Step 6: Maintain Cuttings

Regularly check on your cuttings to monitor their progress. Keep an eye on soil moisture, maintaining conditions that are damp but not soaking wet. Until roots have developed, the leaves can dry out quickly because the cutting is unable to replace the water it loses.

If your indoor environment is dry, consider misting the ficus leaves with plain water to raise the humidity around the cuttings. Higher humidity helps reduce the rate of transpiration. If needed, you can place a plastic dome or a loose-fitting plastic bag over the cuttings to trap humidity. Just be sure the covering does not touch the cutting directly, as this can lead to rot or damage.

Avoid the temptation to dig into the soil to check for roots. The fine root hairs are delicate and easily damaged. Instead, use the “tug test.”

After about four to six weeks, gently tug on the cutting. If it resists being pulled upward, roots have likely formed. If the cutting slips out easily, it has not yet rooted. Be careful not to pull too hard, as this can damage fragile new roots that may be starting to form.

Patience is essential when propagating ficus trees. With time and proper care, your cuttings will reward you with healthy new plants.

Step 7: Transplant Carefully

When your cuttings have established strong roots, you can move them into a larger container to grow to their full glory. The primary thing you want to remember when it comes time to transplant your cutting into its final container is: Do not disturb the root system. 

When transplanting, you don’t want to shake off the soil entirely from the roots. Yes, some soil is bound to fall off while maneuvering the plant around, but removing all the soil from the roots of a healthy plant is unnecessary. 

Leaving some of the soil or rooting media intact will help keep the root system damp while the plant transitions into its pot. When you remove all the soil from the roots, you risk damaging the root hairs on your newly established cutting.  This damage can stunt your cuttings’ growth and cause transplant shock. That’s not how you want your plant to start its life!