Don’t Grow These 11 Plants With Your Roses
Roses make good partners to a host of plants, but those with an aggressive spread, extensive roots, or the same pest and disease propensities make less appealing pairings. Join garden expert Katherine Rowe in exploring plants not to grow with roses for the best health, vigor, and flowering.
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Roses either steal the show or make the ideal specimen in a blended planting, depending on their situation and surrounding plant partners. What we grow with roses contributes to their overall health and performance, or can detract from it. Which selections allow them to shine, complement their form, and won’t impede their growth is a decision to ponder.
Roses are heavy feeders with extensive roots that need plenty of moisture and nutrients during the growing season. They thrive in full sun and in organically rich, well-draining soils. Lots of plants make excellent rose companions, whether aesthetically or serving a dual purpose of repelling pests or enhancing fragrance. Poor partners do the opposite; they may attract the same pests and diseases, compete for water, light, and nutrients, and smother rose growth.
We’ll highlight overarching types of plants not to grow with roses, as well as specific examples. Planted too closely together, the combination may set the foundation for a lack of vigor and fewer of the cherished blooms.
Large Shrubs
While roses are lovely in a mixed hedge, they need ample air circulation and root space to flourish. Situating them too closely to more massive specimens risks their ability to grow and develop. Pairing the heavy feeders with other heavy feeders, specifically, creates competition from the root zone up.
Lilac

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botanical name Syringa vulgaris |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 8-16’ |
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hardiness zones 3-7 |
Lilacs bring a stunning spring welcome with masses of panicle purple blooms and an intense fragrance. Among their many merits are early nectar resources for pollinators (they’re a bumblebee favorite) and superior cold-hardiness.
Lilacs are available in hundreds of cultivars as single or double blooms in creamy white to rose to purple. The woody shrubs or small trees need cold winters to develop buds and don’t last in climates with high heat and humidity.
Lilacs are robust, growing quickly to fill a space, and may outcompete nearby roses. After the heavy flush of flowers, the stems and foliage lack vigor in the summer. They’re highly susceptible to powdery mildew during this time, as are roses, and can invite the fungal problem as a pairing.
Burning Bush

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botanical name Euonymus alatus |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 4-20’ |
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hardiness zones 4-8 |
Burning bush became popular as a landscape ornamental for its fiery scarlet fall foliage and multiseason interest. In late summer, showy red berries emerge and persist into winter, providing forage for birds and extended interest. Its durability and easy growth made it desirable for yards, commercial areas, and highway plantings.
Carefree burning bush adapts to a wide range of growing conditions. While drought-tolerant, it also grows in moist conditions in well-draining soils. It’s the shrub’s adaptability and vigor that make it aggressive and even invasive. Not only will it outsize and compete with a rose for water, nutrients, sunlight, and root space, but it also escapes the garden into natural areas. Burning bush is banned in some states, deemed a significant threat, and a noxious weed in others.
Instead of burning bush, opt for ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) or viburnums (Viburnum spp.) in a rose shrub border and place them appropriately for mature size to avoid competition.
Nightshades
Some vegetables invite pests and diseases that transfer easily to Rosa spp. Nightshades are one group of plants that don’t grow well with roses. These include tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and potatoes, and the blooming annual Nicotiana, or flowering tobacco. Instead of nightshades, look for the supreme rose companions of allium, garlic, and chives. These fragrant perennial herbs deter pests and may even enhance the fragrance of the roses.
Tomatoes

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botanical name Solanum lycopersicum |
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sun requirements Full sun |
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height 2-8’ |
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hardiness zones 3-11 |
Tomatoes, whether compact, determinate varieties or sprawling indeterminate ones, highlight the edible landscape in summer. While they enjoy the same growing conditions as roses (as do many other nightshades), including full sun and even moisture, their complementary pests and diseases make them best to avoid planting together. In nearby plantings, you may see the leaves both curling and declining.
Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants share common fungal problems with roses. Fungal issues like powdery mildew, leaf spot, and Verticillium wilt can be a problem. Pests like aphids and spider mites may be visitors. To avoid potential issues, don’t grow tomatoes next to roses.
The summer fruits grow well in hanging baskets and containers, especially dwarf varieties. Place them away from roses to enjoy the summer bounty from both.
Nicotiana

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botanical name Nicotiana alata |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 3-5’ |
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hardiness zones 10-11 |
The star-shaped trumpet flowers of Nicotiana make it a standout annual – in a bed separate from your roses. Its tubular blooms last from summer until frost with a jasmine fragrance that attracts butterflies and other pollinators. In deep red, pink, lime green, and creamy white, flowering tobacco is versatile in the annual border and pots.
Nicotiana is a nightshade best grown away from other nightshade vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes to reduce disease transmission. Add roses to the list to be on the safe side.
Aggressive Grasses
Ornamental grasses are beautiful with roses. They also play valuable landscape roles and should be included in the shrub and perennial border. They’re ornamental, with graceful blades, showy plumes, and lasting winter interest. They provide ecosystem services like erosion control and are low maintenance, needing little additional resources to thrive. And, they support pollinators and wildlife as shelter sites and forage opportunities.
But the wrong grass can cause problems and may become invasive. Aggressive spreading and reseeding become a detriment to diversity, and they can encroach on other plants, including adjacent roses. Look for native grasses as alternatives to invasive ones to add high ornament and enrichment. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) and pink muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris) make striking rose companions.
Pampas Grass

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botanical name Cortaderia selloana |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 6-12’ |
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hardiness zones 6-10 |
Pampas grass is a popular warm climate species. It’s often paired with tough roses like Knockouts. Pampas tolerates sandy soils, coastal situations, heat, and humidity. With tall, arching blades and massive plumes, the grass makes a statement.
They’re also massive specimens, reaching a hefty height and spread at maturity. They’re able to consume nearby roses if left to their own devices, and at the least, decrease air flow. Pampas is also difficult to eradicate once established and escapes the garden into naturalized areas.
Skip the pampas and go for a tall switchgrass instead. Switchgrass is a North American native prairie grass with highly ornamental and adaptable cultivars. The species grows across soil types, moisture levels, and light conditions. Structural blades form an upright vase, and plumes emerge in summer.
‘Cheyenne Sky’ features striking foliage that begins blue-green and transitions to burgundy red in early summer, with plumes to match. Avoid fertilizer for the rugged native grass; they prefer leaner soils. Situate them at the edge of the rose border if applying fertilizers, or reserve them for less organic spots.
Fountain Grass

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botanical name Cenchrus alopecuroides |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 2-4’ |
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hardiness zones 5-9 |
Pennisetum, in various heights, colors, and hardiness levels, has thin, arching blades and colorful plumes. Many varieties self-seed aggressively and can become invasive. Heat and drought-tolerant, fountain grass grows across soil types and moisture conditions.
There are sterile fountain grass varieties that reportedly won’t self-sow. ‘Hush Puppy’ from the University of Georgia breeding program won’t spread aggressively. Its light pink flowerheads don’t bear seeds and appear in late summer with an extended display into fall. There is a lot of discussion about whether or not sterile cultivars of invasive species have a negative impact on the surrounding ecology.
Shade-Loving Selections
While tall roses and climbers can offer shade to lower plantings, it depends on the space and species as to whether they’ll provide enough coverage for shade plants. Many roses rely on full sun (six or more hours of sunlight daily) for the best flowering and disease resistance. Others, like old garden roses, tolerate partial shade (four or more hours of daily sun).
Plan your companions accordingly so they don’t get sunscald from overexposure. Opt for hardy geraniums for a lovely rose companion in full sun to partial shade.
Japanese Painted Fern

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botanical name Athyrium niponicum |
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sun requirements Partial to full shade |
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height 12-18” |
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hardiness zones 3-9 |
Japanese painted fern is an eclectic pick for shady zones. Its frosted fronds are multicolored in white, purple, and silvery green. The plants have a low mounding habit, with the most impact in groups. The fronds show the best color in light shade, starting mainly silvery in spring and turning more green as summer temperatures rise.
Japanese painted fern is an easy-to-grow perennial that thrives in organically rich, well-drained, consistently moist soils. Many ferns pair best with other shade-loving selections, so unless your rose casts a steady shadow, grow them in woodland settings.
Bigleaf Hydrangea

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botanical name Hydrangea macrophylla |
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sun requirements Partial to full shade |
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height 3-6’ |
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hardiness zones 5-9 |
Roses and hydrangeas can grow beautifully together, depending on the variety and climate. Many roses and hydrangeas have similar cultural requirements, needing the same amount of water (about one to two inches per week) and evenly moist, organically rich, well-draining soils. Light requirements and heat are where they vary. Some roses flourish only in full sun, while hydrangeas may require partial to full shade.
In cool, northern climates, roses and hydrangeas tolerate more sun with regular moisture. In warmer, southern climates, they benefit from afternoon shade or dappled light, especially essential for hydrangeas.
To grow them together, combine roses that tolerate partial shade with sun-tolerant hydrangeas for the best success. Both grow and bloom in partial shade (at least four hours of sunlight). Good disease resistance for both is an asset, too. Look to panicle hydrangeas to plant with roses, as they tolerate more sun than others.
Certain Perennials
Perennials with robust tubers that spread quickly to fill a space aren’t the best pairing with roses. Their roots and spread can crowd leafy upper growth, block sunlight, and take up root space. The extensive roots of both compete for resources.
Canna

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botanical name Canna spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 1-8’ |
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hardiness zones 6-10 |
Canna lilies are tropical statement specimens with broad, upright leaves and tall, ruffled blooms. The flowers range from pale yellow to hot orange and carmine. Canna leaves are as dynamic as their flowers, in bright green to deep purple, and with striking patterns.
The rugged beauties are fast-growing and spread by underground rhizomes. As tall specimens with wide leaves, they can crowd out nearby roses. The perennials colonize in optimal growing conditions and withstand dry spells, heat, humidity, and excess moisture.
Spreading Herbs
Herbs like Salvia spp. are excellent partners for roses, though species that quickly spread out of control can create issues. Mint, thyme, oregano, and lemon balm are potentially heavy spreaders. Their vigorous running stems root wherever there’s soil contact, forming a mat that draws nutrients.
While groundcovers add insulation and regulate soil temperatures around roses, they also foster damp conditions when the cover is thick. This can lead to fungal problems like powdery mildew and black spot.
Mint

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botanical name Mentha spp. |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 6”-3’ |
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hardiness zones 3-11 |
Mint creates a low-growing carpet of freshly-scented leaves. It favors similar growing conditions to Rosa spp. and runs quickly in its ideal setting. It can take over and escape the planting area if not controlled.
Mint is a prime herb for a pot to keep it contained. Harvest the leaves frequently to control the size (and to enjoy), and pinch off any flowering stems to inhibit seeding.
Dense Groundcovers and Vines
Dense groundcovers are other mat-forming specimens with the potential to compete with feeder roots for vital resources. They may also have a smothering effect by reducing air circulation and fostering optimal conditions for fungal diseases. Creeping jenny, Asiatic jasmine, star jasmine, and vinca are dense groundcovers. Jasmines and vinca have vining stems that can encroach on the crown and branches of the flowering shrubs.
Star Jasmine

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botanical name Trachelospermum jasminoides |
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sun requirements Full sun to partial shade |
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height 2’-30’ vines |
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hardiness zones 7-10 |
Star jasmine isn’t a true jasmine but resembles the woody vine in habit, flower, and fragrance. Star-shaped, creamy white flowers cover dark green, glossy leaves on twining stems in spring and continue sporadically through summer and fall.
The vine grows vigorously and perennializes in warm climates, especially in dappled light situations. It grows vertically along trellises, arbors, and walls or as a sprawling groundcover. Shear to keep it tidy and contained post-flowering. The ready spreader makes a dense groundcover around roses that will need frequent trims to keep it in bounds and away from the crowns.