How to Overwinter Geraniums: 5 Pro Tips

Geraniums yield vivid color and dynamic foliage all summer and into fall. If you’re not ready to part with the easy-care annuals or tender perennials, there are a few straightforward methods for overwintering. Gardening expert Katherine Rowe explores simple techniques to protect our favorites for another flourishing round.

Plants prepared to overwinter geraniums, appearing green and sturdy with parts pruned away placed near a window with sunlight

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Geraniums, easy care and long-lasting, bring color all summer and into fall. As we approach cooler weather in fall and even the first frost, we can decide whether to overwinter geraniums or retire them to the compost pile after a hard freeze.

Geranium classifications in the Pelargonium genus include common garden geraniums, ivy-leaved geraniums, and scented geraniums. They all feature distinct leaves with interesting shapes and patterns. 

Common garden geraniums, or zonal geraniums, have large bloom clusters in saturated colors on stiff stems. Ivy-leaf geraniums trail with lobed leaves, while scented geraniums bear notable fragrances in lemon, rose, and cinnamon, among others.

To preserve special selections for the next growing season, it’s worth giving overwintering a try. With three ways to protect the tender specimens, the process is easy.

Overwintering Geraniums

Pink Pelargonium and purple Petunia flowers trailing down from hanging baskets against wooden slats.
Use trailing plants like calibrachoa, petunias, lobelia, and dichondra for beautiful, cascading basket displays.

Tender geraniums are mostly native to southern Africa and perennialize in frost-free zones 9-12. For most of us, they’re annuals (though they may survive in lower zones with heavy mulch).

Pelargoniums differ from true geraniums of the Geranium genus. Hardy geraniums, or cranesbill, are tough perennials with billowy foliage and delicate flowers in rich colors. They include native woodland species and cold-hardy performers.

To overwinter geraniums, plan to protect them before the first hard freeze and when nighttime temperatures drop below 45°F (7°C). They overwinter indoors, store as bare root specimens, and are propagated as cuttings.

Prepare and Prune

Pruning a plant in the autumn garden. Close-up of a gardener in black gloves with black and blue pruning shears trimming Geranium leaves. The plant has strong stems with rounded leaves. These leaves have wavy and finely serrated edges, and brownish markings.
Preparation starts in fall as the plant enters dormancy.

Stop fertilizing the tender perennials by October as the plant enters dormancy. To prepare geraniums for overwintering, cut back stems by one-third to one-half to reduce the leafy upper growth. This allows the plant to focus on root development.

To overwinter geraniums in the ground, dig them up and either gently loosen and shake excess soil from the roots, or place them in a fitting container. To treat them as houseplants, a container with well-draining soil works well. For bare root, keep them mostly soil-free to proceed with storing.

Bring Them Indoors

Close-up of a female gardener transplanting a plant into a black hanging pot on a sunny terrace. The gardener is wearing a green blouse, a gray apron, and white gloves with floral patterns. The geranium plant has a large root ball with pot-shaped soil, rounded green leaves with wavy and jagged edges, and tall stems that are tipped with a cluster of small, delicate pink flowers.
Protect tender plants by bringing them indoors.

An easy way to overwinter geraniums is to bring them inside when the weather cools. Simply give them a trim, water well, and bring the pots indoors. 

To soften the transition from outdoors, meeting their proper light and temperature, and watering requirements are the key factors. Geraniums grow well as houseplants in a bright spot and with average temperatures.

Lighting

Close-up of a flowering Pelargonium citronellum 'Mabel Gray' plant in a sunny garden. Pelargonium citronellum boasts intricately shaped leaves characterized by deep lobes and serrated edges, creating a visually appealing texture. The flowers are clusters of small, delicate blooms, each with five petals arranged symmetrically around a central point. These blossoms feature a pale pink coloration with purple veins and deep pink markings on the petals.
If your geraniums are used to bright sun outdoors, they need similar conditions indoors to prevent leggy growth.

Situate the new houseplants in a sunny spot or near a bright window. East-facing windows capture the morning sun, or a south or west-facing position offers the most light on short winter days. Place pots slightly away from the south or west light or filtered with a curtain if the afternoon rays prove too intense.

With lighting changes, plants may become leggy and paler green. Pinch back long or thin stems to just above a healthy leaf node to encourage a bushy form. Leaf color and vigor return during the active growing season.

Temperatures

Clusters of vibrant red geranium flowers with rounded petals and bright green, scalloped leaves in full bloom.
Keep geraniums away from heating sources indoors.

Geraniums overwintering indoors benefit from cool temperatures between 60 and 65°F (16-18°C). Place pots in a cool room or near a window to lower the temperature.

Keep them away from heated or cooled drafts. Heating and air vents, open windows, space heaters, and fireplaces cause sweeping fluctuations of dry air.

Watering

Close-up of a blooming Pelargonium panduriforme covered with water drops on a green background. Pelargonium panduriforme displays distinctive flowers and leaves. Its foliage consists of broad, heart-shaped leaves with serrated edges, tinged with red along the margins. The flowers are characterized by their unique, pansy-like appearance, with delicate petals arranged in vivid hues of purple-pink, each bloom boasting a distinct dark blotch at the base.
Check the soil moisture to determine when to water.

With naturally slowing growth, Pelargonium needs little watering in the cool season. Roots aren’t absorbing moisture or nutrients as readily as during the growing season. Water only when the soil feels dry to the touch, likely once a month. The pot will feel lighter in addition to dry surface soil.

Check soil moisture every few weeks so roots don’t dry out completely. Overwatering results in roots sitting for prolonged periods in soggy situations, and fungal problems like root rot can develop.

Use tepid or lukewarm water at each session to promote humidity and avoid shocking the roots. Water deeply until it flows from the pot’s drainage holes. Empty trays or saucers after pots have time to drain to avoid letting pots sit in water for extended periods.

Take Cuttings

Multiple cuttings and stems placed in separate translucent cups with labels, placed in a transparent tray
If you don’t want to dig up plants, take cuttings to bring indoors.

Fall cuttings are a good option for housing smaller specimens over the winter. And, they offer a jump start on new selections for moving to the garden in spring (or growing year-round as a houseplant).

It’s best to take geranium cuttings in late spring or early summer before flowering, but it’s possible to take them anytime, even later in the season. New, healthy, soft growth is best.

Plan to root the cuttings in water or potting soil, growing them out in pots before transitioning them outdoors in warming conditions.

Pelargonium propagate easily from cuttings. To take stem cuttings:

  • Cut a three-to-four-inch piece of stem from a healthy branch, preferably unflowering or with flowers removed.
  • Remove leaves from the bottom ⅔ of the cutting, leaving at least two intact. Keep the cuttings moist until ready to pot.
  • Optionally, dip the lower portion of the stem in rooting hormone, coating generously. Tap off any excess rooting powder.
  • Plant the cutting in at least two inches of moist, well-draining potting mix, coarse sand, vermiculite, or perlite, or in a shallow glass jar with water.
  • Place the pot in a bright, warm location, avoiding direct sunlight
  • Water as needed to maintain evenly moist soil.
  • After about six to eight weeks, when the cutting resists a gentle tug, roots are in place and ready to be repotted.
  • Bump the cuttings up to four-inch pots, keeping them indoors in a bright spot, like a sunny windowsill, and moving them outside in mild conditions. Pinch back leggy or spindly tips to promote a bushing habit. New plants will be tender.

Storing Bare Root

Close-up of a black window box with flowering Geraniums and cascading Ivy Plant. Red geraniums are a sight to behold, boasting vibrant clusters of scarlet blooms. Each flower is comprised of velvety petals, forming rounded umbels that contrast beautifully against the plant's lush, green foliage. Hydrangeas with delicate white inflorescences bloom in the flowerbed by the window.
Remove the soil around the roots for storage.

An unheated, dry space like a root cellar, basement, shed, greenhouse, or garage is another excellent option to overwinter geraniums. To store them in a protected shelter, plan to house them as bare-root specimens.

Carefully shake most of the soil loose from the roots, whether lifting from pots or in the ground. Removing geraniums from their soil and storing them bare root may be the most challenging method. Take cuttings if the selections are special to cover your bases.

Hang the pruned plants upside down, or place one or two in a cardboard box or paper bag kept open for ventilation. Aim to keep the temperature range between 45 and 55°F (7-13°C) for the best overwintering in a dormant state.

During the season, soak the roots two or three times for an hour or two at a time. Then, return them to hanging, bagged, or boxed storage. Leaves will likely dry, shrivel, and drop, though stems should remain firm and solid.

Ready for Spring

Clusters of coral-pink geraniums with overlapping, rounded petals and dark green scalloped leaves.
Gradually expose geraniums to outdoor conditions again in spring.

To move the flowering annuals out in the spring, do so gradually to get them acclimated to life outside again. After the final frost, move them to a partially shaded spot for several hours a day, returning them inside in the evenings for up to a week.

Once outside for the season, be mindful of lingering chilly nights that accompany warming days. Bring them in on cool nights.

Awakening bare-root specimens may take longer to emerge (even several weeks). Trim off any dead material and plant them in containers in March or April and situate them in a sunny window.

Or, plant them in the ground post-frost. Give all a good watering session, and keep the soil evenly moist in warm, sunny conditions.

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