The Perfect Time to Harvest Lavender for Maximum Fragrance
It’s lavender harvest season! Whether we enjoy the budded stems and calming fragrance on a garden stroll or in the vase, dried bundles, oils, or in sweet and savory cuisine, the timing matters. Harvesting for peak fragrance is best at a certain point in the season, bud development, and time of day. Garden expert Katherine Rowe outlines the best time to harvest lavender for maximum fragrance, and when to pick for that cool glass of lavender lemonade.
Contents
Lavender, the silvery, floriferous, and fragrant semi-shrub, bridges the ornamental and edible landscapes to the delight of gardeners and pollinators. The invigorating aroma and ornamental purple bloom spikes are reason enough to grow these Mediterranean native plants, not to mention their easy care and multiple applications. In a sun-drenched spot with well-draining soils and good air circulation, lavender needs little else to thrive.
There are many benefits to growing this herb, from aromatherapy and wellness to florals to versatility in the kitchen. Low-maintenance lavender perennializes in zones 5 to 8, depending on the variety, for years of recurrent enjoyment. In humid climates, look for resistant varieties like ‘Phenomenal’ to withstand summer conditions. Cold-tolerant varieties include ‘Munstead’ and ‘Hidcote.’
While easygoing, we may not realize that there are optimal times to harvest lavender for the maximum fragrance, freshness, and our intended use. Picking at peak readiness yields the longest-lasting scent and occurs at a particular time in bud development. With dried stems and blooms, the fragrance stores for years.
Lavender Harvest Overview
Lavender benefits from pruning to rejuvenate growth and limit the development of weak wood. The harvest accomplishes a shaping and regenerative session. It also directs energy into establishing lavender’s extensive root systems rather than seed production.
Make small bundles as you go or just after harvesting, using rubber bands to tie them into one-inch or so groups (up to 100 stems). You can also use twine, knotting it with an adjustable slip or retying as the stems dry and shrink.
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) tolerates a heavy cutback, with up to ⅔ removed at harvest. For hybrids (Lavandula x intermedia), aim for less than half of the foliage cutback. You may get a bundle or two from young plants and up to 10 from established specimens.
Materials needed:
- Clean, sharp shears, pruners, or a hand scythe or a lavender sickle for a number of plants
- Rubber bands or twine to bundle the stems
- A basket or bucket for carrying the aromatic bounty
Early Season, First Cut
If your lavender is up and showing color in early spring, do a round of cutting. Harvesting early gives the herbs time to produce a second round of flowers in the summer. Anytime between spring and early summer offers the freshest lavender stems and blooms for that quintessential and enduring fragrance.
Time of Day
Harvesting lavender for maximum fragrance means a morning cut. A mid-morning trim optimizes the availability of essential oils and turgid stems from night’s cooling temperatures and moisture. By late day, the potency of the oils decreases in the sun and is lost to natural processes.
Harvesting too early in the morning means dew is likely present, which can cause mold and mildew in fresh or dried florals. Wait for the dew to dry in the morning’s sun and breeze before cutting. Avoid pruning lavender after a rainy night to reduce fungal infection on the cut stems. Dry, sunny conditions are optimal, with a lack of lingering moisture.
By Use
The nuances of timing the lavender harvest relate to our intended uses. Some start with early buds (culinary) and go until flowers open more fully (fresh florals) to maximize fragrance and color.
Dried Bundles
When drying the stems, capturing the best color and scent for preservation is key. Harvest lavender early in the season for peak fragrance and showy purple blooms and buds. Catch them as the first flowers begin to open. Aim for about half of the stems in flower and half budded. Half and half ensures the longest-lasting scent and aesthetic. Otherwise, blossoms may open and drop or fade in the sun.
While you can clip and dry lavender stems anytime, in spring and early summer, as they show initial color, is prime. Cut again if a second round emerges later in the season.
Fresh Fragrance and Florals
Check the stems for buds that are halfway open. There will be variation per plant, so look for those that are at about the same stage. Fifty percent or more open flowers create the showiest display. As the buds continue to open in water, they’ll show the most color.
Stems that are halfway open or more also bear the most fragrance for preserving in a carrier for natural air fresheners and in alcohols.
Essential Oils
To get the most out of the plant’s essential oils and the easiest access, wait to harvest until flowers are fully open. The oils are most available in full bloom, ready to use in your own DIY recipes.
Culinary
Lavender is popular in baked goods, cocktails, tea, and cooked dishes for its zesty, earthy flavor. For the best flavor, we want to harness the buds and the oils they contain. Skip the leaves, which are more medicinal tasting. English lavender is ideal for culinary endeavors, with fewer camphor notes.
To use lavender in cuisine, cut the stems in the bud stage and before they open. From lavender tea to cookies, the flavor and integrity persist in the bud stage. Garnish with a few dried blooms and buds for added charm.
Making the Best Cut
Lavender is a woody subshrub (semi-shrub with weak wood) that develops thick stems as it matures. The older, established branches help the upper growth continue to develop and also to survive seasonal extremes, like cold winters and hot summers. Brown, woody stems occur toward the base of the plant and the crown.
When clipping the flowering stems, look for the brown, woody section of the stem where it sends up fresh, green growth. Make the cut two to three inches above the woody portion, cutting only into the green stem. Clipping the fresh growth at a point where it can rejuvenate promotes new growth. Cutting the older stems can cause damage and dieback.
Cutting lavender is easy and forgiving, as long as you’re above the wood. Cut by the handful, ideally as long as possible for easy handling. Clip above a leaf node (where two leaves meet the stem).
Drying Lavender
With small bundles bound or tied, hang them upside down in a cool, dim, dry space to dry. Avoid direct sunlight, which can bleach color and oils. Be mindful of humidity, too, which can lead to mold and mildew issues. Allow plenty of airflow between bundles.
Lavender is dry when stems are brittle and snap when bent. They dull in color after a week or so and may take up to six weeks to dry fully. Once dry, the bundles or buds are ready to use or store in airtight containers for future use.
Post-Harvest Care
Native to Mediterranean climate zones, lavender grows best in areas with warm, arid summers and cool, wet winters. Lavender thrives with a bit of neglect, preferring lean soils to overly fertile ones. They develop an extensive root system, and watering deeply—but infrequently—supports expansion. Sturdy roots help the herbs withstand environmental stressors like heat waves and cold snaps.
How much water lavender needs depends on site-specific factors like soil type, plant size, and seasonal conditions. For the sun-loving and drought-resistant perennials, it’s best to err on the dry side to avoid crown and root rot problems.
Young and newly transplanted herbs rely on consistent moisture, with water once or twice weekly. In most growing areas, established specimens need only minimal supplemental irrigation, if any. Watering every two weeks and during hot and dry spells is beneficial.
With a spring or early summer harvest, you’ll hopefully gain a second flush of flowers. Trim at the appropriate stage for your use and to rejuvenate the plants. To leave some blooms for pollinators and to enjoy in the landscape, harvest from the perimeter, leaving the top intact for a full display. Cut back plants up to one-third in the fall to promote a full, mounded form the following spring.
Overwintering
In lower growing zones, add extra mulch or top with evergreen boughs to protect against freezing extremes. To overwinter the perennials in containers, place them in a cool, sheltered location like a garage or basement until spring’s final frost. Reduce watering, but check the soil moisture occasionally to keep roots from drying out completely.
