Do This to Your Garden Tools Before Using Them on Your Plants This Season

Garden tools left dirty or dull from last season can spread disease and make garden work harder than it needs to be. Gardening expert Madison Moulton shares the essential maintenance tasks to tackle before you start pruning, digging, and planting this year.

A close-up and overhead shot of a composition of gardening tools, placed on a wooden surface, showcasing garden tools before using

Contents

Garden tools are usually the last thing I think about when I’m gardening, as thinking about the plants is much more exciting. But sadly, tools that aren’t cared for can carry problems from plant to plant if you let them.

Fungal spores, bacteria, and pest eggs hitchhike on dirty blades and get introduced to healthy plants every time you make a cut. Dull blades compound the problem by creating ragged wounds that take longer to heal and are more susceptible to infection. And if you don’t provide the proper care, you’ll also be digging into your gardening budget sooner to replace tools that could have lasted much longer.

Spending an hour or two on tool maintenance before the season starts prevents these issues and makes your actual gardening work easier. Clean, sharp tools require less effort to use and do less damage to plants. It’s not particularly exciting, but checking off these garden tool tasks before using them is definitely worth doing.

Clean

Close-up of a person in jeans and a brown jacket cleaning dirt off a spade with a spatula, in a well lit area outdoors
Regular soap and water are usually enough to clean away debris.

The first thing to do with your garden tools before using them is cleaning, especially for heavily used tools. Start by removing all the dirt, sap, and plant residue from all your tools. Soil clinging to tools can harbor fungal spores, bacteria, and even pest eggs that spread to healthy plants when you use the tools again.

For heavily soiled tools, scrub them with a stiff brush and warm soapy water. A wire brush works well for removing stubborn dirt and rust from metal surfaces. Garden hoses can rinse off loose soil, but you’ll need to scrub for anything that’s dried on or stuck.

Pay particular attention to pruning tools. Sap buildup on blades can gum up the mechanism and harbor pathogens. If sap won’t come off with soap and water, try rubbing alcohol.

After washing, dry your tools thoroughly. Leaving them wet encourages rust, which undoes all your cleaning work. Wipe metal surfaces with a dry cloth and leave tools in a warm, dry spot for an hour or two before putting them away.

For tools you used on diseased plants last season, take an extra step and disinfect with a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water or use rubbing alcohol. Wipe or dip the blades, let them sit for a minute, then rinse and dry. This kills any lingering pathogens that could infect this year’s plants.

Sharpen

A male gardener in a plaid shirt sharpens large pruners using a stone sharpener in a well lit yard area outdoors
Always keep tools sharp to avoid damaging branches.

Dull blades make the job of pruning much harder. Anyone who has tried to prune with blunt blades will understand the frustration. But beyond that, dull blades can also damage plants more. A sharp blade makes a clean cut that heals quickly, while a dull blade crushes and tears plant tissue, creating larger wounds that take longer to heal and are more susceptible to disease.

You can tell blades are dull when they crush stems instead of cutting cleanly through them, or when you have to squeeze harder than usual to make cuts. You can do a quick test, but if you haven’t sharpened in a while, they probably need it anyway. This is important to do to garden tools before using them, but also machinery like lawnmower blades.

Spades and hoes also benefit from sharpening, though these don’t need to be as sharp as cutting tools. A file works fine for touching up the edges. Sharper digging tools cut through soil and roots more easily, which makes a noticeable difference when you’re working in compacted or root-filled soil.

If you’re not comfortable sharpening tools yourself, many garden centers and hardware stores offer sharpening services.

Oil

A close-up shot of a person in the process of oiling and lubricating a small electric saw, all situated in a well lit area outdoors
Oil any moving parts to make sure they work smoothly.

Metal tools need a thin coat of oil to prevent rust and keep moving parts working smoothly. This is particularly important if your tools are stored in a damp shed or garage where moisture can accumulate.

For tools with moving parts like pruners or loppers, apply a few drops of lubricating oil to the pivot point and work the handles back and forth to distribute it. Wipe off any excess oil so it doesn’t attract dirt. This is best done before storage, but if you didn’t complete this step earlier, make sure you do it to your garden tools before using them.

For digging tools and other solid metal implements, wipe down metal surfaces with an oiled rag. This creates a protective barrier against moisture. Make sure they’re stored in a dry spot afterwards.

Wood handles benefit from oil, too. Linseed oil or mineral oil helps prevent the wood from drying out and cracking. Apply oil to the handle, let it soak in for a few minutes, then wipe off excess. This is especially worth doing for older tools with wooden handles that are starting to look dry or rough.

Repair

A close-up and overhead shot of a person's hands in the process of repairing a pruner, all on top of a wooden surface in a well lit area indoors
If you need to fix any tools, do that before you use them on any plants.

Check garden tools for damage before using them heavily this season. Loose handles are the most common problem. A shovel or hoe with a loose handle is frustrating to use and potentially dangerous if the head comes off mid-swing. Broken or cracked handles should be replaced rather than trying to repair them, as they can be dangerous.

Check springs on pruning tools. Weak or broken springs make tools harder to use (never mind tiring your hand muscles out quickly). Replacement springs are inexpensive and usually easy to install.

Look for cracks in metal parts, bends on forks, or other structural damage. Some of these issues are fixable, but severely damaged tools are often better replaced than repaired.

Invest in New Tools

A close-up shot of a composition of brand new equipment and other items, leaning on a wooden fence, all situated in a grassy area outdoors
For tools that are past their prime, invest in new ones.

If you’ve been making do with cheap or worn-out tools, spring is a good time to upgrade. Quality tools make garden work noticeably easier and more enjoyable, and they last for years (sometimes decades) with basic maintenance.

You don’t need to replace everything at once. Start with the tools you use most often or the ones that are in the worst condition. One good tool is better than five cheap ones that don’t work properly.

Share This Post
A strawberry plantation shows rows of plants growing with straw serving as organic mulch and black plastic sheets as synthetic mulch, covering the soil for protection and moisture retention.

Mulch

Organic vs. Synthetic Mulch: Which is Best For Your Yard?

Not all mulches are created equal! Some work better than others for specific yard projects. Which type to use, organic or synthetic, depends on your growing goals and your garden’s setup. Learn which is best for your yard alongside backyard gardener Jerad Bryant.