How to Plant, Grow, and Care For Distylium Shrubs

If you garden in a moderate to warm climate, Distylium may be just the evergreen you didn’t know you needed. The architectural shrub fills a variety of roles and does so effortlessly. If attractiveness, reliable performance, and little to no maintenance sound appealing, join gardening expert Katherine Rowe in a review of how to grow these well-rounded specimens.

Clusters of golden-brown, dried seed pods hang from lush green leaves, the glossy foliage creating a dense backdrop, while the rough textures of the pods contrast sharply with the soft greenery surrounding them.

Contents

While years in the making, Distylium hybrids are relatively young on the ornamental scene, with new varieties entering the market in exciting forms and variegations. Depending on the selection, the attractive evergreens have graceful scaffolding or upright branches and narrow, lustrous leaves in deep olive to blue-green.

In addition to their pleasing stature is their ease of growth. These exceptionally low-maintenance shrubs thrive across hot, humid climates and have good cold tolerance while requiring few additional resources and little gardener intervention. With no real problems to speak of, the merits of these handsome specimens speak for themselves in the landscape.

Distylium spp. ‘Distylium’ Overview

A single unopened yellow flower bud stands out against glossy, deep green leaves, the bud smooth and rounded, with the surrounding foliage adding a lush contrast as sunlight highlights the textures.
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen
Family Hamamelidaceae
Genus Distylium
Species spp.
Native Area East and Southeast Asia
Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Height 2-10’
Watering Requirements Average
Pests & Diseases Pest and disease-resistant; Phytophthora root rot
Maintenance Low
Soil Type Average
Hardiness Zone 6-9

What is Distylium?

Clusters of small, dark fruits are nestled among dense, shiny green leaves, with the foliage creating a textured background of smooth surfaces and bright green hues, catching the sunlight from above.
The architectural plants are pest-free and grow in coastal and high-heat conditions.

Distylium, also Isu tree or winter hazel, is a versatile, no-fuss evergreen for warm climates. There are 18 species occurring in Asia, with two in cultivation. Increasingly popular in the home garden are hybrids originating from these two species, D. racemosum and D. myricoides. Dr. Michael Dirr at the University of Georgia and colleagues at Plant Introductions, Inc. are largely responsible for the initial hybrids, which remain top performers, with more in their company and still others in the works. 

The architectural plants are pest-free and grow in coastal and high-heat conditions. They’re also disease-resistant, drought-tolerant, and need little to no pruning. Some selections grow well across moist conditions.

The durable evergreens make suitable stand-ins for Indian hawthorne, laurels, boxwoods, nandinas, and hollies that may suffer insect and disease problems. They complement a mixed screen or standalone as a hedge, foundation, or mass planting. They’re a fit for formal and informal styles alike.

The low-maintenance, easy growers are free of severe problems. Even deer and rabbits usually don’t bother them. This a stable, attractive, carefree perennial shrub with multiseason appeal.

Characteristics

Slender green branches with tiny, pointed leaves stretch outwards, creating a delicate texture, with fine veins visible on the smooth leaves, highlighted against the soft, sunlit greenery of the surrounding plant.
While dense with ample foliage, the long, slightly arching stems give a graceful look.

Distylium bears glossy, dark olive to blue-green leaves held upright on scaffolding stems. While dense with ample foliage, the long, slightly arching stems give a graceful look. New growth emerges in copper, red, and purple, depending on the variety.

Inconspicuous red blooms dot stems in late winter and early spring, usually January through March. Small brown seed capsules follow, with no messy drop or aggressive spreading.

Form and growth habit vary by selection, but they share a compact nature and fine texture. Whether low and spreading or upright and columnar, there’s a variety for any number of garden situations.

Native Area

The sun filters through thick clusters of small green leaves, each leaf slightly oval and smooth, casting gentle shadows on the branches as the warm light creates a glowing effect on the lush greenery.
The small tree (quite large in the wild – up to 60 feet) is hardy to zone 6.

Distylium is in the witchhazel family (Hamamelidaceae). D. racemosum (isu tree) and D. myricoides (blue isu tree) are the parent trees to the cultivated shrubs and are native to China and Japan. D.racemosum brings rugged growth to the mix. The small tree (quite large in the wild – up to 60 feet) is hardy to zone 6. It’s heat and drought-tolerant and grows in sun or moderate shade free of pests and diseases. D. myricoides enhances the aesthetics with layered branches and linear blue-green leaves.

D. racemosum occurs at elevations of 3,000 to 4,000 feet, while D. myricoides grows at 1,000 to 2,000 feet and is less cold hardy (zone 7). They grow in forested sites and benefit from protection from winter winds.

Planting

A gardener’s hands are seen placing a young tree with dark green leaves into a freshly dug hole, the black fabric container being removed, with the surrounding soil freshly turned and rich in texture.
Depending on the variety, spacing varies from about two to four feet apart to allow room for mature spread.

At planting, dig a hole twice the size of the nursery pot and loosen the surrounding soil. Gently remove the shrub from its container, noting that the bulk of the roots may lie at the bottom of the pot as they sought moist conditions while growing.

Depending on the variety, spacing varies from about two to four feet apart to allow room for mature spread. The specimens are slow growers and easily pruned, but they look best showing off their natural form with some overlapping.

Transplanting 

A row of young plants, each with bare branches and no leaves, sits in a neatly dug trench filled with dark, freshly turned soil, surrounded by a grassy garden area, ready to establish their roots.
Cool temperatures and seasonal moisture give roots time to establish before winter and summer temperature fluctuations.

Fall and spring are the best times for planting. Cool temperatures and seasonal moisture give roots time to establish before winter and summer temperature fluctuations. For the least stress, avoid planting in frozen or waterlogged conditions and extreme heat or dryness.

How to Grow

A close-up view of thorn-covered stems with small, bright green leaves emerging from the branches, the contrast between the sharp thorns and the smooth, fresh leaves highlighting the new growth.
Certain cultural requirements, like regular moisture and sun exposure, are best for optimal health.

The carefree, easy growers have low maintenance needs. Even so, certain cultural requirements, like regular moisture and sun exposure, are best for optimal health.

Light

A newly transplanted plant with dark green leaves stands upright, its fresh leaves catching the sunlight, with a smooth brick edge framing the garden space around it.
Branching takes on a looser habit in the shade than in the sun.

The evergreen shrubs grow best in full sun (with six or more hours of sunlight daily) to partial shade (four or more hours). Branching takes on a looser habit in the shade than in the sun.

Water

A gardener waters a leafy green plant with a hose, the water spraying in a wide arc, glistening in the sunlight, while the leaves absorb the moisture, their shiny surfaces catching the droplets.
About an inch of water per week is sufficient.

The adaptable growers do best with consistent moisture, though they tolerate periods of drought once established. They also withstand periodic saturation and perform well in rain gardens.

About an inch of water per week is sufficient, with only supplemental irrigation needed during dry spells after the first two growing seasons. Water through frost to prepare them for winter.

Soil

A person holding a small shovel to mix the soil, prepping a garden bed for planting.
Compost improves aeration, moisture retention, drainage, and nutrition.

Distylium tolerates various soil types, including clay, but does best in average, medium, and well-drained soils. While not finicky about soil pH levels, slightly acidic is optimal.

In poor soils like clay and sand, add compost at planting. Compost improves aeration, moisture retention, drainage, and nutrition. Adding a compost layer to the garden bed or container each spring refreshes these benefits for the growing season.

Temperature and Humidity

A close-up of new, smooth green leaves emerging from an old, wooden stem, the contrast between the rough bark and the fresh, tender leaves capturing the plant’s rejuvenation and vitality.
Cold hardy down to USDA zone 7 (and sometimes 6), they benefit from extra mulch and protection from winter winds.

The shrubs are heat and humidity-tolerant, given good air circulation and moist but not overly saturated soils. They perform across the southeast with no summer issues.

Cold hardy down to USDA zone 7 (and sometimes 6), they benefit from extra mulch and protection from winter winds in the lowest zones. New, tender spring growth may be susceptible to late frosts.

Fertilizing

A person adding a  slow release osmocote fertilizer to the plant soil.
If you opt to fertilize or have poor soils, apply a balanced, organic, slow-release, like 5-5-5.

With nutrient-rich soils, the hearty specimens don’t require additional fertilizers to thrive. They’ll benefit from fresh compost each spring. If you opt to fertilize or have poor soils, apply a balanced, organic, slow-release, like 5-5-5, at planting and in early spring.

Maintenance

A gardener uses red garden shears to trim a dense patch of green leaves, the thick foliage being shaped and maintained as the vibrant leaves are snipped away, revealing the neat, well-kept garden below.
No pruning is necessary, but if you want to do some snipping, remove the tips post-flowering.

Distyliums are truly low maintenance. No pruning is necessary, but if you want to do some snipping, remove the tips post-flowering in late May or June to promote a bushy, compact form. They take shaping well if you’re forming a uniform hedge or screen, but their natural, graceful form doesn’t warrant cutting.

For added temperature regulation and moisture retention, add a layer of mulch around the plants. Keep it off of the stems to prevent rot and other crown diseases.

Propagation

Several small green seedlings grow in clear plastic pots, their delicate leaves reaching upwards, while a metal watering can sits beside them on a brown soil bed, indicating care for the young plants.
Collect seeds in the fall for fresh sowing or for cold stratification over the winter.

Plant patents protect commercially-grown hybrids and prohibit propagation. Source these from your local nursery. Straight species (D. racemosaum and D. myricoides) propagate via seeds and cuttings.

Take soft stem cuttings in early summer. Collect seeds in the fall for fresh sowing or for cold stratification over the winter.

Cuttings

A close-up of a freshly cut branch, its exposed end sealed with a wax treatment, while the rough texture of the wood contrasts with the smoothness of the surrounding waxy green leaves and stems in the background.
Plant the cuttings in four- to six-inch pots and move them outside in mild conditions.

Here are simple steps for taking cuttings:

  • Cut a four-to-six-inch piece of healthy stem from new growth.
  • Remove the foliage from the bottom section of the cutting, keeping one to two upper leaves intact. Keep the cuttings moist until ready to pot.
  • Optional: moisten the cutting and generously coat the lower stem with rooting hormone. Tap off any excess rooting powder.
  • Plant the cutting in at least two inches of moist, well-draining potting mix. One-half to two-thirds of the stem should be covered, including at least two leaf nodes.
  • Place the pot or tray in a bright, warm location, away from direct sunlight.
  • Mist or water as needed to keep the soil evenly moist.
  • When the cutting resists a gentle tug after a few weeks, roots are in place, and cuttings are ready for repotting.
  • Plant the cuttings in four- to six-inch pots and move them outside in mild conditions. The new plants will be tender.

Growing From Seed

A close-up of a hand carefully dropping small seeds into a shallow trench in rich, brown soil, with a slight indentation where the hand has already passed, ready for covering.
Direct sow the fresh seeds in a prepped garden area or tray, covering them lightly with soil.

Collect seed capsules as they brown in the fall and place them in a paper bag for a few days until the capsules expel the seeds. Direct sow the fresh seeds in a prepped garden area or tray, covering them lightly with soil.

Dried seeds require cold and moist stratification to germinate. Refrigerate or direct sow them in late fall or winter for two to three months of cold exposure.

A cluster of vibrant pink flower buds, each tightly packed and ready to bloom, sits on a green branch surrounded by deep green leaves, the contrast between the soft petals and glossy foliage creating a rich visual texture.
The reliable performers offer all-season visual interest and textural contrast.

Hybrids offer exciting forms, sizes, and foliage colorations to fit various spaces and styles. The reliable performers offer all-season visual interest and textural contrast.

‘Vintage Jade’

‘Vintage Jade’ is one of the best-known and most compact varieties. Growing three feet tall and four feet wide, it’s ideal as a foundation planting, along walkways and borders, and on slopes. 

‘Vintage Jade’ has a mounding habit and dark green, glossy leaves. Tiny red blossoms line stems in February and March. This is the first patented selection and remains a favorite.

‘Linebacker’

‘Linebacker’ is unique as the tallest among the hybrids. The dense, upright grower reaches eight to ten feet tall by six to eight feet wide – a statuesque player good for hedging, even if it doesn’t grow as large as advertised.

‘Linebacker’s’ new growth emerges in tinged in red and matures to deep green.

‘Cinnamon Girl’

‘Cinnamon Girl’ is a low-grower with a refined look ideal for the border. She reaches two to three feet tall and four to six feet wide. 

The real draw is the new growth when small, purple-red leaves swirl on graceful, arching branches. ‘Cinnamon Girl’ is among the more cold-tolerant cultivars, with hardiness to zone 6.

‘Blue Cascade’

A compact spreader with layered stems and long, blue-green leaves, ‘Blue Cascade’ lives up to its name with a flowing form. New leaves emerge purple-bronze.

‘Blue Cascade’ is versatile at three to four feet high and wide and is hardy to zone 6.

‘Coppertone’

‘Coppertone’ adds spice with coppery red new growth. Leaves mature to blue-green with purple tones in winter.

The mid-sized variety has a rounded growth habit and grows three to four feet high and four to five feet wide. Slightly stiffer stems hold upright leaves.

Common Problems

Clusters of golden-brown seed pods hang from smooth, shiny green leaves, their dried, wrinkled texture providing a sharp contrast to the lush foliage, while sunlight illuminates both the pods and the surrounding greenery.
Maintaining optimal growing conditions promotes vigorous specimens with the greatest resistance.

While maintenance-free, Distylium is also free of most pests and diseases. Maintaining optimal growing conditions promotes vigorous specimens with the greatest resistance.

Fungal root rot can occur in overwatered situations. Root rot causes plants to decline due to an inability to absorb water and nutrients. The pathogen Phytophthora impacts feeder roots, preventing them from uptaking water and nutrients. Leaves appear drought-stressed, turn yellow, and wilt.

Look for rot slightly below the soil level. If rot is the problem, the stems will be yellow, and the roots will be brown and mushy rather than a healthy white.

If caught early and with only minor damage, the shrub can recover. Reduce irrigation frequencies to allow oversaturated soils time to drain. Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy. 

Proper cultural management, especially not overwatering, is the best control. Water deeply and increase the length of time between sessions if needed. Deep watering allows better absorption over frequent, shallow watering. Distylium does well with drying out slightly between sessions. Allow plenty of airflow between plants and surrounding structures.

Frequently Asked Questions

When do you prune the evergreens?

While they don’t require pruning, you may opt to trim the tips of stems after flowering. Removing the growth tip promotes bushy, compact, lateral growth. Distyliums take shaping well but don’t require it.

Can Distylium grow in containers?

The slow-growers work well in containers if the pots are large enough to accommodate roots and mature upper growth. Use a well-draining potting mix and topdress with compost each spring. Water deeply when soil is dry to a depth of two to three inches. Use them in containers year-round and as evergreen anchors in wintertime displays in a protected area like a porch or patio.

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