What’s Eating My Cauliflower? 7 Pests to Look For

Is your cauliflower looking a little worse for wear? People aren't the only ones that like to eat this brassica; many insects do, too. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to discuss how to identify and treat common cauliflower pests.

A cauliflower inflorescence is encircled by broad green leaves showing visible pest damage, with irregular holes and uneven edges scattered across the foliage.

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It’s been a few years since the cauliflower craze commenced. Once a simple component of mixed veggies, this brassica picked up steam a while back. Its versatility in the kitchen had vegetarians and low-carb fanatics turning it into a wide range of dishes. From rice to steak, it seemed for a while as though you could make anything from a head of cauliflower. 

Cauliflower is a great substitute for high-calorie starchy foods. It’s highly nutrient-dense. It contains ample amounts of vitamin C, folate, and minerals like potassium, magnesium, and manganese. It’s packed with fiber and antioxidants to fight inflammation and disease, as well. 

This cool-season crop is moderately easy if you provide the right nutrients and conditions. It likes cool weather, but has a longer growing season than its cousin, broccoli. Like all brassicas, however, it’s not without its issues. 

Cauliflower is temperature sensitive, preferring cool weather. It’s also a heavy feeder, so it needs rich soil and regular fertilizing. It’s also susceptible to the same pests that plague other brassicas.

Let’s take a look at those cauliflower pests and talk about how to ID, prevent, and remove them.

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Cabbage Loopers and Worms

A small green cabbage looper caterpillar with a slender, curved body crawls along the surface of a bright green leaf, leaving faint feeding marks behind.
Neem oil discourages egg-laying and slows caterpillar feeding.

Cabbage loopers and worms are some of the most common cauliflower pests you’ll encounter. These caterpillars chew large holes in your leaves and sometimes the developing heads. They reduce your yield and can make your crop rather unappetizing. 

These pests like warm weather, as they are the larvae of a night-flying moth. Expect to battle these starting in June. They can stick around all the way to October when cool nights slow them down. 

How to Identify

Cabbage loopers and worms are moth larvae. The adult form of loopers is a mottled, gray moth with a ‘figure-8’ mark or ‘Y’ on each wing. The eggs are pale green to white, dome-shaped, and appear alone on leaf undersides. The caterpillars are bright green with white stripes and no legs in their mid-section.

The adult form of cabbage worms is a small white butterfly. They sometimes have one or two black spots on the wings. The eggs are similar, but yellow rather than white. The larvae are velvety green and have legs along the body.

Looper larvae tend to crawl like an inchworm, due to the distribution of their legs. Worms crawl more smoothly. Each is about one inch long at maturity. The larval stage of both is the most destructive.

How to Prevent

Crop rotation is important for preventing most types of pests in the garden. In the Southeast, plant your cabbage in the fall as they are less active during the cooler months. Row covers help keep moths away, especially at night. Always remove debris from the vegetable garden promptly and keep things neat.

How to Remove

Encourage beneficial insects like parasitic wasps, ladybugs, lacewings, and ground beetles. These eat looper and worm eggs. Nectar rich flowers planted nearby will facilitate this.

Neem oil acts as a deterrent for most egg-laying insects, and it disrupts caterpillar eating. You can also apply Bt, an organic microbial spray that specifically targets caterpillars.

Check your plants often for signs of these pests. If you don’t catch them early they can be quite damaging to your crop. If you see them present on your plants, handpick them and drop them in a bucket of soapy water.

Cabbage Aphids

Clusters of tiny, soft-bodied, gray-green insects with pear-shaped bodies gather densely on the underside of a leafy green plant, sucking sap and causing leaf curling.
Leaves curl tightly when these little invaders feed.

Aphids are common in most gardens, and seem to be one of the cauliflower pests we struggle with most. They can be damaging if not caught and dealt with early. 

Cabbage aphids multiply quickly and without mating. Populations can explode in a short time and become a big issue. They suck sap from leaves, causing them to curl and yellow, and they often stunt growth. They can also work their way into the curd, where they are difficult to eliminate. 

How to Identify

These cabbage pests are tiny, only about two millimeters long. They are soft-bodied and greenish-gray with a waxy coating that makes them look dusty. You’ll find them in clusters on the undersides of leaves, and in leaf curls.

How to Prevent

Once they get into your curds it’s difficult to save your cauliflower crop. Keep your garden clean and clear of debris, and always practice crop rotation. Trap crops like nasturtiums and mustard are great for planting nearby. These will attract the aphids away from your vegetables.

Aphids love humidity, so give your cauliflower heads some space for airflow. Beneficial insects like ladybug larvae love to eat these, so keep nectar plants nearby for adults. Row covers are also a help, though not as much as they are with flying insects.

How to Remove

Use blasting with a strong stream of water from a hose as your first defense. If needed, organic sprays like neem oil and insecticidal soaps are effective. Neem oil disrupts their feeding and reproduction; this works best for light infestations. Insecticidal soap and horticultural oils will smother adults if you spray them directly on them.

Products containing Beauveria bassiana, which is a beneficial fungus, can suppress populations. It won’t harm pollinators or other animals around the garden.

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Flea Beetles

Tiny, shiny black beetles with round bodies and strong hind legs appear scattered across a blue-green broad leaf, leaving behind small round shot-like holes from their feeding.
Small black and bronze beetles can jump surprisingly far.

Flea beetles are tricky and affect primarily young, tender plants. They are most active in warm, dry weather in late spring and early summer. In warm climates, they can persist into fall. 

Both adults and larvae are damaging cauliflower pests. Adults leave round holes in leaves, while larvae feed on roots underground. Heavy feeding can stunt the growth of young seedlings. Mature plants typically withstand these. 

How to Identify

You can identify these cauliflower pests by their presence or their damage. The adult beetles are small, about one-eighth of an inch long. They are black or bronze, and some species have yellow markings. They jump like fleas when disturbed.

How to Prevent

Rotate your crops every year, and keep your garden tidy. Fall planting is best in the Southeast after they peak. Lightweight row covers are the most effective prevention as they prevent adult beetles from laying eggs. Heavy mulch also makes it harder for beetles to emerge near the plant.

Encourage predators by planting nectar-rich flowers nearby. Beneficial nematodes are also helpful at controlling larvae. Flea beetles prefer radishes and mustards, so you can use these as a trap crop. Just make sure to pull them up and dispose of them away from the garden.

How to Remove

Diatomaceous earth around the base of the plant is helpful for getting rid of larvae in the soil. Insecticidal soap repels and disrupts their feeding. For heavy infestations, pyrethrin is effective, but use it sparingly. This is harmful to beneficial insects.

Cutworms

A plump, brownish-gray caterpillar with faint stripes along its body creeps on the textured, dark green surface of kale leaves.
Early-season larvae hide near soil and garden weeds.

Cutworms are sly, and they show up early in the season. This is another reason planting in the fall is best in the Southeast. These caterpillars are the larvae of several moths, and they can seemingly take your young cauliflower plants down overnight.

Cutworms do what their name implies. They cut (chew) through your tender stems, causing them to fall over. These cauliflower pests can take down a whole row of seedlings in a short time. They’re less serious for larger plants, because they prefer tender growth. 

How to Identify

Cutworms are caterpillars and larvae of a brownish-gray moth. They lay eggs on weeds and in the soil at night, near young plants. The larvae are gray, fat caterpillars that curl into a C shape when disturbed.

How to Prevent

Keep weeds and debris to a minimum to give them fewer places to lay their eggs. Diatomaceous earth sprinkled on the ground around the base is an effective deterrent, and plant collars are helpful.

How to Remove

You have to catch cutworms when they are active. Disturbing the soil around your plants will sometimes reveal them in the ground. You may see them in the evening and early morning around the base of your plants. Remove them and drop them in soapy water.

Root Maggots

A small, slender, white larva with a smooth body is seen burrowing into the pale, damaged root.
Cool, wet weather encourages their damaging activity.

Root maggots are cauliflower pests that can cause serious damage. Plants are most vulnerable when they are young with tender foliage. The maggots burrow into plant roots and disrupt water and nutrient uptake. 

You may see seedlings wilt suddenly and collapse. Roots will be slimy and rotten. Most damage occurs in the spring in cool, wet weather. 

How to Identify

The adults look like small, gray houseflies. They lay their eggs in the spring, in soil that surrounds brassicas. The larvae are the damaging stage and are small and white. They’re about one-quarter of an inch long and legless.

How to Prevent

The way to prevent these cauliflower pests is to stop the flies from laying eggs. Fall planting is advantageous for these as they breed in the spring. Rotate crops yearly, to prevent the same pests from rearing their heads in the same spots.

Root maggots like wet soil, so good drainage is a must. Make sure to pull spent brassicas up from the roots and dispose of them away from the garden as they can attract these pests. Row covers are also effective, along with plant collars and mulch.

How to Remove

Beneficial nematodes are effective against these pests. They attack the larvae underground. These have plenty of natural predators like beetles and parasitic wasps.

Slugs and Snails

A large reddish-brown slug with a slimy, ridged body crawls across the broad green cauliflower leaf, leaving a shiny mucous trail behind.
Slow-moving nibblers can ruin tender seedlings overnight.

Slugs and snails are common pests of cauliflower and other plants with leafy greens. Brassica leaves are all edible and appealing to pests. These aren’t as sneaky; they are large and slow-moving, but they can do a lot of damage. 

They chew large, irregular holes in leaves. The holes they leave commonly have smooth edges. They may nibble on the curds as well, contaminating them with slime. Seedlings are most vulnerable as they can eat them right down to the ground.

How to Identify

Slugs are soft-bodied mollusks, snails are similar, but have a shell. They are nocturnal feeders and hide in dark, moist spaces.

How to Prevent

Prevent these pests by removing their hiding spots. Dense weeds and leaf litter are common spots for them to hide. Water in the morning. They like moisture, so you want your plants dry in the evening when they feed. Give your plants space to breathe. Dry soil is not hospitable to these mollusks.

Barriers are an effective prevention for these pests. Copper tape around the base of plants will deter them. Diatomaceous earth sprinkled on dry soil is also effective. They don’t like rough textures, so rough mulch will keep them at bay.

Lots of animals eat slugs. Birds, frogs, and some beetles are slug and snail predators. If you have chickens, they typically take care of them. Nemotodes are also good for targeting these pests.

How to Remove

Look out for them after rain, especially in the evening. You can handpick them when you see them. Check your plants regularly at dusk so that you can catch them early. Beer traps and organic slug baits are also effective at eradicating and repelling slugs and snails.

Whiteflies

Tiny whiteflies cluster on the surface of a broad green cabbage leaf, their delicate wings contrasting against the textured leaf veins.
Sap-sucking insects cause yellowing and wilting leaves.

I am not a fan of whiteflies, and they are about as common as aphids in my garden. They’re not as destructive as some other pests on this list, but in warm, humid climates, they can be a nuisance. Some of them spread viruses, but this is less common in brassicas. 

Whiteflies are sap sucking insects. They cause yellowing and wilting of leaves and overall reduced vigor of the plant. They also leave behind a sticky excrement that is prime for growing mold. This mold interferes with photosynthesis. 

How to Identify

The eggs are too tiny to see, though sometimes you will see a grouping of them. They lay their eggs under a leaf in a semicircle or circular shape. They are pale green and extremely small.

The adults are easy to identify. When you disturb the foliage, these tiny, white, mothlike insects will flutter around.

How to Prevent

Good sanitation is the best defense against these cauliflower pests. Clean up the ground around your plants, remove weeds, and of course, rotate crops yearly. Floating row covers also deter the adults from laying eggs.

How to Remove

Whiteflies are common and have lots of natural predators. Attracting beneficial insects to the garden is a good way to prevent them. Ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps all eat these pests. Plant dill, fennel, and nectar-rich plants to attract these predators.

The most effective way I have found to deal with whiteflies is with yellow sticky traps. They are attracted to yellow, and they’re tiny, so they stick the traps easily. These will attract other flying insects, including beneficial ones. If all else fails, try an insecticidal soap to eradicate them.

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